Widow Clicquot

For all the stirring proto-feminist messaging, this is a curiously uninvolving piece of storytelling.

Although Widow Clicquot won’t blow your mind, it is a solid, if muddled, biopic of someone who was entirely fascinating, founded a great champagne empire, became one of the richest women of her day and whom, I’m guessing, you know nothing about.

Bryce Dessner, from rock band The National, also contributes an austere score mixing spare strings and a convent-like choir. Overall, though, Widow Clicquot is distinctly lacking in verve.

It’s not quite the full grand cru period drama from the Merchant Ivory vintage, but rather a semi-sparkling biopic.

A dim, fawning account of the achievements of Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin (1777-1866), the original creator of the marque.

This didn't pop my cork.

Widow Clicquot isn't quite robust or ferocious enough to fully do its subject justice.

Like second-day champagne, it rather lacks in fizz.

Despite the slightly melodramatic presentation, it’s a fascinating story which may make you feel inclined to check out the source material for further enlightenment. Or, throwing caution to the winds, even to pop open a bottle of Veuve Clicquot.

Underlying the movie is a love story told in flashbacks, but what prevails is a fascinating tale of a celebrated drink that, even with a certain conventionality, never loses its subtle charm and remarkable tastefulness. [Full review in Spanish]